The statements expressed above are only for informational purposes and should be independently verified. Please see our terms of service for more details. Excellent Auto Repair Ratings. YourMechanic Auto Repair. Related Articles. Experienced Mechanic? Recent Electric Problems Inspection reviews. Excellent Rating. Rating Summary. Kanstantsin 19 years of experience. Request Kanstantsin. Chevrolet Cruze L Absolutely humble and knowledgeable mechanic, he knows his work very well.
I would strongly recommend him. Thanks Kanstantsin. Can definitely be trusted to work on your car. He knows about Volvos, particularly older models. Alejandro 9 years of experience. Request Alejandro. GMC Yukon V He us a great asset to your organization. Cool dude who was calm and collective about these issues.
Will be able to want to book another appointment with him, if it is needed. Jonathan 35 years of experience. Request Jonathan. GMC Envoy L He completed what I thought was a thorough inspection and resolved my headlight issue. Thank you again! Joe 43 years of experience. Request Joe. Mercury Sable V Well I already comment on Joe and the service he did.
Like I said Joe really is concerned about your problem. He really goes beyond the call of duty. I'm so glad I went to this site. I knew when reading the profile of the mechanics,I knew I found the right one when I read Joe's profile.
He really is passionate about his work. Really explains more then you would get from other places and mechanics I've dealtwith. Thank you Joe for having a great car side manner. You really put me at ease. If there is no short, the problem is between connector C3 and the taillights or radio or heater control panel light or hazard switch illumination light or automatic transmission indicator light.
Note: if there is still a short, we haven't eliminated those circuits. We will confirm later. If there is no short in step 8, reconnect C3 and retest to make sure you don't have two branches with short circuits.
Let us know what the results are with steps 3, 5, 7, and 9. Then I can give you more diagnostics. I am completing a rotisserie restoration on a '71 z. All functioned fine before the car was disassembled. The parking light switch is in the off position. If you don't mind a few questions:. In all my literature pertaining to the wiring harness I cannot find any reference to "C" connector designations.
Which connectors are these? IIRC the parking lights can be turned on with the engine off and key out. I've removed the fuse and inserted a test light in it's place.
I've disconnected both of these but the test light glows uninterrupted. I will continue to study the FSM and perform tests. If you have any ideas to aid in my diagnostic I would greatly appreciate it. Update: I unplugged the 6 pin connector leading out of the fuse box and the test light still jumped in place of the fuse goes out.
With the 6 pin connector disconnected I connected each pin from the male side of the 6 pin connector to it's corresponding pin on the female side of the connector. I'm off to lunch more diagnosis when I return. Final update - the under hood inspection light must be shorted internally.
I unhooked it and presto - the light went out. The only other wiring issue I had was the parking lights would not come on. I fiddled with the switch and presto! I have many switches on hand. I think Dave Irwin has some, too, and he repairs switches. If you want to look him up here, his user name is Zs-Ondabrain. Well I finally got tired of not being able to drive my z at night and solved my problem with blowing the fuse that run dash,tail and side marker lights. The positive plug on the passenger rear side marker light was missing the plug insulation on the positive wire and was touching the metal.
So I put heat shrink tube on it, put it back together and put in the fuse. Now all my lights. Thanks djwarner, I remembered changing the bulbs in all the side marker lights, before I started blowing the fuse. All is good now, finally. This happened me a couple years ago. I finally figured out that the socket for the glove box bulb was corroded and it probably raised the current on that circuit until the fused burned.
SteveJ , I have performed the steps you described and am at step 8, Short only appears when light switch is on, Also do not have low beams, what do you suggest next. Examine your wiring harness in the dash. Look for "modifications" made by yourself or previous owners.
I will look at harder, appears only radio has had mods at anytime. After plugging and unplugging connectors my low beams work. I see in FSM that head lights are in circuit with park, will pull cans and check connections. I also pulled and cleaned combination switch, nothing appears corroded, loose or broken.
Also did ground test at combination connector, GL to GW and it shows grounded past switch, do I assume switch is good, in advance thanks for the help, I have worked on many old vehicles, this is first Z.
It is my sons and I am trying to get street legal for my son when he returns from Marines. This was a project of his before he signed up. I found a short in C3 however, it persists despite the body and console harnesses being disconnected. If so, the mechanic will replace the fuse. The most common causes of a speedometer that stopped working include are a faulty speed sensor, a broken gear on the speedometer, damaged wiring, or a faulty engine control unit. Can a bad instrument cluster cause transmission problems?
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