Removing those old mildew stains and spilled sodas is like a facelift for your patio. Before you resurface the whole patio, spend a little time patching the cracks and pits. For this stage, mix it to a consistency that lets you apply it easily with a trowel. Let the repairs dry completely before the next step. Once your repairs are dry, completely saturate your concrete patio with water, then remove any standing water. Work in manageable sections, as the resurfacer will set up very quickly, and make sure to separate the gaps between workspaces to maintain the spaces between slabs.
Mix the resurfacer one work section at a time and apply with a long-handled trowel, then go over it with a push broom or squeegee to get that flat finish.
And if you are not sure of how you want to resurface or if you want to put new concrete over old concrete , you can look at that article to come up with your decision. If you decide to resurface your old patio, check out this video from Quikrete for a step-by-step guide.
If you just want to add a little flavor to your outdoor space, adding some color to your patio might be just the thing. There are plenty of options here, from a simple coat to diagrams and scoring. Here are just a few ideas. Taping instead of scoring adds considerable flexibility for designing shapes — you may not even have to stick to straight lines!
The difference between paint and stain essentially comes down to where the color goes. Paint sits on top of the concrete and provides a layer of color. Paint will allow you the greatest flexibility for vibrant color. Pavers are probably the most time-intensive and costly method for covering an old concrete patio. For this solution, you will need to build a border of bricks around the outside of the patio. Your options here are limited only by your imagination.
You could even turn that concrete slab into an outdoor kitchen! Here are some must haves for your outdoor kitchen! A deck is a great way to cover your old concrete patio, and we outlined a few other options as well. Here are a few other resources for you to reference. Guide to Covering Your Patio with Pavers. View Larger Image. Wood Decking Wood decking is the more traditional approach to building a deck, but it is fading in popularity.
Composite Decking One of the many benefits of composite decking is that it is built from a combination of wood fibers and PVC plastic. When you install your sleepers, keep them no more than a foot apart. You want to provide as much support for the top planks as you can, and too much distance can leave your deck feeling unstable and springy. It can even be dangerous — nobody wants to put a foot through the deck. Some composite decking can be installed directly onto concrete without sleepers.
In this case, you will want to make sure your patio is very level and well settled. My question then is do you prefer to have a wood deck? Or have you thought about using paver stones? Due to your space restrictions I think it would be easiest to use paver stones.
But, if you wish to use wood or composite, it is also possible. Each approach is described below to help you decide what is best for your space.
Building a Wood or Composite Deck If you choose to build a wood or composite deck you will need to remove the concrete slab patio with a jack hammer. Why Remove the Concrete Slab? Building on top of the concrete slab patio is not a good idea for a few reasons. First, laying deck boards on top of the existing patio without any joists to secure it from below will be free to move, twist, or just feel bouncy as you walk on it. Second, if you ever have any rain not much I know in Southern California or moisture it will sit there under the boards and it will cause problems.
The wood boards might be susceptible to warping or rotting because of moisture underneath. Bottom line, laying deck boards on top of your existing patio is not functional and is not a good idea. The clearance is far too low to have any kind of joist material below the decking boards. This means you will be laying decking boards literally on top of the concrete pad, resulting in potential problems.
If you remove the existing patio or concrete slab, you will have an added 5" to build your deck! The added 5" makes building a wood deck possible - if you do it right along with a little bit of additional work. There are three common foundations if you choose to build a wooden deck.
For your convenience, each approach is described below. Using the Deck Block One option is to use a deck block for the foundation of your deck. While this is the cheapest option, it is not ideal. You will have to use quite a few of the blocks given their base size generally less than 1 sqft. They also do not have grooves large enough to rest a double 2x8 or 2x6 beam. This means you will likely have to set a 4x4 post in them and then attach a beam over top of the post.
All of this will increase the elevation, something you cannot afford with your space restrictions. If you use deck blocks to support 2x6 joists at various locations, you have to have the elevations just right or the joist will rest on the highest deck block and not the others. Or if your deck blocks are too low the joist will be suspended and over a longer distance.
This can result in a bouncy sensation as you walk on it. All of this means a lot of finicky and time consuming work plus a loss of precious elevation for your specific challenge. Using Traditional Concrete Footing The traditional concrete footing approach requires more work than using deck blocks, but it is also a lot more secure.
You will have to dig a minimum of 12" below grade as required by the IRC for concrete footings. You can use a true footing with a pier and then pour cement and set a saddle bracket on the top. In areas prone to frost you would have to have the underside of the footing below the frost line. Post positive. Posts should be anchored to the existing concrete to help stabilize the framing. Consult with your local building code official on the best methods for attachment. Gap like a pro.
Proper gapping is necessary for water drainage and expansion and contraction, and also allows for shrinkage associated with wood joist systems. Worried about splitting boards? A sleeper system is a substructure comprising joists that sit between a solid surface such as concrete and the decking. Ground-level and rooftop decks, for that matter present unique challenges when it comes to water management and air circulation. The sleeper system enables adequate drainage and ventilation which, in turn, protects the deck boards from damage due to moisture build-up.
Sleepers also enable easier access to the area beneath the decking, either for clearing accumulated debris or maintaining the surface material.
Keep products off the ground and covered on a flat, dry surface. The following preparation and installation procedures will result in less visible gapping:. Careful planning of the finished deck layout will result in better looking finished projects. Fiberon composite deck boards are made to mimic the varied colors and grains of wood.
For example, you may want to line up boards in the same wood grain direction for a uniform look. An alternating direction style can add visual interest to your project. Also consider using two colors of deck boards with the lighter colored boards in the field of the deck and the darker colored boards as design accents around the perimeter of the deck.
Fiberon decking materials are designed to be installed with either face screws or hidden fasteners. Phantom hidden fasteners are specifically designed for Fiberon side-grooved boards and provide a smooth, fastener-free surface. Face fastening can be accomplished with hidden or regular surface fastening screws.
Cortex hidden face fasteners are installed on the surface and have deck plugs that cover the screw heads for a virtually fastener-free look.
0コメント